Capuchio Designs

Saturday, June 12, 2010

Vatican City

Today we had an early start, as we were going to spend time in Vatican City in Rome.  It’s the weirdest thing that Vatican City is really a country, is completely protected by a very tall stone wall, and is situated smack dab in the middle of Rome.  To get to it, we climbed a long staircase, and then luckily, bypassed the hundreds of tourists who were waiting to get in.

stairway to (heaven) Vatican City

Vatican Museum

Before we entered the Vatican Museum, there were some beautiful views of courtyard gardens where Popes have enjoyed a stroll, and views of St. Peter’s Basilica, where the Pope delivers his sermons.

The Vatican Museum beholds some of the most magnificent pieces of art … fit for a Pope. These ceilings were particularly striking!

There were statues of angel children holding ducks (some significance associated with death?), and a statue of fertility too. I’ll let you guess what part of the anatomy makes the fertility statue so fertile. Ha!  That’ll do it!

The tapestry room really caught my interest. Each of these were hand made using silk / wool. They were massive in size and the pictures on them were very detailed.

In the tapestry on the right, Jesus’s arm, and eyes move as well as the stone he’s standing on, as you walk by. It’s a particular style of art that plays visual tricks on you. I swear I walked past that tapestry over and over, and every single time, those aforementioned parts on the tapestry followed me. Spooky … yet fascinating!

hall of maps ~ Vatican Museum

The map room had such a magnificent ceiling with old maps of different parts of the world. Oh the talent that was depicted through these maps. They were so glorious.

This long, long, hallway was so regal, and a part of it is roped off for the Pope to use.

Vatican, but looks like the hallway to see the wizard in the Emerald City

There was a long line to get into the Sistine Chapel, luckily we were special and were able to bypass this long line and get right on in … but not through these special heavy doors that are only opened for special celebrations.

Here are a few photos looking out towards the square. This is the area where people sit to hear the Pope speak.

where the Pope speaks to the masses

Pope's residence overlooking square

If you look to the right side of this photo, the second window from the right on the second floor, is where the Pope resides. He certainly has a nice view of everything below.

Sistine Chapel

We entered the Sistine Chapel at our appointment time.  I was amazed that it really wasn’t all that big … or as big as my own mind had imagined.  The frescoes were so magnificent.  Having the opportunity to “feel” the beauty of this exquisite art is difficult to put into words.  Because photos are not allowed, the following are credited to wiki.

Sistine Chapel Ceiling

It took Michelangelo only four years to complete these frescoes which were completed in 1512.  Each one tells a story.  Because one of the Popes thought some of the paintings were indecent, he had another artist cover up some of the private parts.  That artist guy is known as the “underwear artist.”  Hilarious!

My favorite panel is one of the “Creation of Man.”  Oooh, can you feel its beauty?  Magnificent!  Michelangelo is my favorite artist of all time!  Love all of this!

Michelangelo's Creation of Man ~ Sistine Chapel

St. Peter’s Basilica

Our next stop was just a few steps away … St. Peter’s Basilica. This was named after one of Jesus’s twelve apostles. Ralph Waldo Emerson described St. Peter’s as an “ornament of the earth … the sublime of the beautiful.” I couldn’t agree more!

This monstrous beauty is situated on 5.7 acres and has the capacity to hold 60,000 people. The shape is that of a crucifix with four great piers. The outside is guarded by 13 travertine statues on the rooftop.

St. Peter's Basilica ~ Vatican

Michelangelo contributed to the design of this Basilica, and especially the dome.  It is so massive that when we looked up and saw a guard walking around the top, he looked the size of an ant.  The letters at the very top are six feet tall, if that gives you some perspective.  People are simply swallowed up and dwarfed by the enormity of this place!

dome in St. Peter's that seems to shrink people

Here are some of the intricately carved statues inside St. Peter’s.

Two very important structures inside the Basilica are the baldachin, or large canopy made of bronze, and St. Peter’s chair, both designed by Bernini.   The baldachin structure covers the main alter.  St. Peter’s tomb is below this.  The twisted columns signify the post that Jesus was crucified on.  The second structure, or St. Peter’s chair is surrounded by so much art that it’s hard to actually see the chair.

baldachin

St. Peter's chair

The most elegant piece of art is housed in the Chapel of “Pieta,” which in Italian means “pity”. This beautiful sculpture of the Virgin Mary holding the body of Christ was done by Michelangelo. It was carved out of a single slab of marble, and is the only piece of his art that was signed by him. I love this piece and was mesmerized by the feeling it gave me. I could of pulled up a chair (if there was one) and stared at this magnificent art forever!

Michelangelo's Pieta (Pity)

Michelangelo portrayed a much younger Virgin Mary than the 40-50 year old one portrayed by all the other artists.  Her face is serene and almost at peace with the fate of her only son. He said he thought of his own mother, who died when he was five, while sculpting this.  Michelangelo was only 24 years old at the time of this work.  The Pieta left a lasting impression with me as a gorgeous sculpture portraying human suffrage.

When we exited St. Peter’s we saw two of the Swiss Guards who were guarding the area.  These young men have flare, and sport uniforms designed by Michelangelo himself.  Molto attraente.

Swiss Guards

After a quick lunch of lasagna, we boarded the coach and went over to the Colosseum.

Colosseum

Once again, we were lucky enough to spot another bride and groom in Rome.  They were taking photos right outside the Colosseum.

bride and groom at the Colosseum

We walked directly beyond the imperial Arch of Constantine, which commemorates one of his victories, in order to get to the Colosseum.

Arch of Constantine

The Colosseum is a magnificent landmark of Roman history.  This ancient amphitheater was completed in AD 80 and was part of Nero’s great park in central Rome.  There were numerous “fake” gladiators strolling around the exterior. They charged about 30 Euros ($40 American) to get a photo with them, so being the thrifty gal that I am, I simply took a photo of them when they weren’t looking.  Ha Ha!
Once inside, I was taken aback by its enormity. There were four stories in the Colosseum, with the top one for the poor (think “rock pile” at the Rockie’s baseball games) and the lower story for the wealthy. It gave me an eerie feeling … one of sadness, since there were executions, and so many lives that were lost there for the sake of public entertainment.

underground structures of Colosseum

There was a big, simple cross just inside one of the entrances.

Gladiators were often slaves, criminals, or prisoners of war. They engaged in contests, battled one another, and slayed animals (or got slain by them). Animals, held captive in the lower structure in cages before the show, killed one another for public enjoyment.  Eww! Macabre entertainment!

outside Colosseum, this gypsy beggar made me sad

On the way back to the hotel, we passed the Circus Maximus, where public games like chariot races were held for the masses.

Circus Maximus

After a little shopping, we had our final dinner with the group at Cassanova, a “Casa Bonita” type of Italian restaurant in the heart of Roma. There was an ear-shattering Italian opera singer which was just over the top.

farewell dinner with friends at Cassanova (Casa Bonita)

Took lots of group pictures and rushed off to bed, although some of our party friends stayed up much later celebrating Italy. Our wake up call was 5:00 a.m. so we needed our beauty sleep!

Yippee … home tomorrow!

Bravissiomo!

Friday, June 11, 2010

Tarquinia

This morning we left Chianciano Terme and headed for Tarquinia, in the northern Lazio region of Italy.  There we visited Etruscan tombs and Tarquinia’s Archeological Museum on the way to Rome.

There were many rounded “hut”-looking hills, at the Etruscan Necropolis (large burial site). Under each of these mounds was a tomb. There were a handful that we were allowed to view by walking down steep stairs, and observing through a glass window.

frescoes in Etruscan tomb

There were frescoes painted on the walls depicting life from the time of this ancient civilization dating back to 2nd – 6th century BC.  About 60 of the 6,000 discovered tombs contain paintings inside them.

Tarquinia ~ tower

After this, we went up the hill to the Archaeological Museum. There were many artifacts like bowls and vases, as well as many sarcophagi made of limestone and marble.  Sadly, our local tour guide was so boring that we were almost falling asleep, for lack of excitement.

After the museum, we ate lunch on the patio outside a pizzeria/ deli. I chose a tomato, artichoke, mushroom and “rocket” pizza. I had no idea what “rocket” was, it just looked like healthy greens. Since I declared myself to be a risk-taking-try-something-new type of gal on this trip, I ordered this pizza. The taste was peppery and slightly bitter, but along with the other veggies, my pizza tasted great! The best part was the price … 2.50 Euros for two slices of pizza and 70 cents for a Coke purchased at the little grocery store next door.  Ole!   Oh yes … I later learned that “rocket” is just another name for arugula. Hmmm.

I took a few photos of a group of Italian teenagers who just got out of school for siesta. This is a time when most Italians take a 3-4 hour break in the middle of the day to have lunch and rest. I’m convinced that kids are just kids no matter what country you’re in.

Italian kids just out from school

Rome

Our final stop for the day was Rome!  The city of so much ancient history.  On the ride in we saw a McDonalds restaurant … really?…  a McDonalds in Rome?  (I hate to admit that we did stop in at another McDonalds just to enjoy some salty french fries and a Coke).

McDonalds Rome style

Our hotel was the Hotel Cicerone, in the center part of Rome.  Not much to look at even if we did have a small balcony looking onto a depressing courtyard.  Fortunately, we spent minimal time there … sleep and a shower!  We immediately departed the hotel to go exploring the entire afternoon and evening.

Hotel Cicerone

The first place on our list of attractions was the Spanish Steps.  The roadway (think Rodeo Drive) directly leading to this was lined with high-end Italian shopping like Gucci, Prada, Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, and Versace among others.  I felt like “Pretty Woman” before she got the high end make-over (out of place).  The Spanish steps are the largest and widest steps in all of Europe.  There is a fountain at the bottom in the Piaza di Spagna, that was made by Bernini.

Spanish Steps

We took some random Rome photos along the way to the tourist attractions.

The lower right photograph is of chestnuts roasting. Somehow this wasn’t so appealing on a 90 + degree day, but it was quite interesting anyway.

Our next stop was Trevi Fountain, which is so famous for its large Baroque style and “Taming the Water” theme. Oh yeah… also for the coin tossing. This fountain was absolutely gorgeous! What a magnificent piece of art. It was so crowded around that area, it was hard to get a decent picture without other pushy tourists stepping into your photo. This fountain was a built by Salvi, but was based on the designs of Bernini almost a century prior to its completion year of 1762.  Molto Bella!

Trevi Fountain

Here are the throngs of people surrounding Trevi Fountain. Whoa!

crowded Trevi Fountain

We continued our self-guided exploration of Rome over to the Pantheon, which is a temple to all ancient Roman Gods, and is used as a church today.  Its architecture is very unique and has a rotunda which is believed to be an arched vault to the heavens.  Up at the top of this is an oculus (center open to the sky).  This dome is the largest unsupported concrete dome in the world, making it an architectural marvel.  Inside are niches of art and paintings.  Since the Renaissance,  the Pantheon is used to hold sarcophagi, which includes Raphael, the famous Italian painter, alongside his fiance’.  There are also two kings, a queen, a composer and an architect entombed here as well.

Pantheon oculus (open center to the sky)

As in many other Italian buildings, the art, sculptures, paintings and marble flooring are amazing.

I’m still a little grossed out at the number of deceased bodies entombed and on public display all over Italy. Just a different way of honoring their loved ones I suppose.

Raphael's tomb

Just a little trivia … Did you know that the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles were all named after famous Italian artists?  Micheangelo – sculpter, Raphael - painter, Donatello – sculpter and Leonardo (da Vinci) – inventor/ painter.  My middle son played with these characters during his childhood and I didn’t even know their name significance until this trip.

Our final destination today was at the Piazza Navona, where Bernini’s famous and brilliant Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers) is located in the center of the square.  This fountain has figures as personifications  of the four rivers:  Nile, Ganges, Danube, and lastly the Rio della Plata.  These figures surround the obelisk center.

Fountain of the Four Rivers ~ Piazza Navona

Fontana di Nettuno (Fountain of Neptune) one of two side fountains in Piazza Navona

Long, long ago, this square was an arena for athletic contests and chariot races, for entertainment.  Today, it hosts street performers and artists as well as many sidewalk cafes for relaxation and dining.

Clockwise from top left: street performer dressed as a tree passing a crystal ball, vegetables being intricately carved into flowers etc…, man dressed up as a soldier statue, and a close-up look at the Fountain of the Four Rivers.

dome inside Sant'Angese Basilica in Piazza Navona

In the piazza is Sant’Angese Basilica Church, which was designed by Borromini, a rival of Bernini.  The inside dome was painted so intricately and detailed, it was very breathtaking.

We were lucky enough to capture a picture of a bride and groom in Rome in the Piazza Navona. This is one of two brides we were able to get a photo of.

another happy bride and groom

Tonight we joined in with another two Australian couples and had dinner at a little cafe just off the main square.  We asked if there was a cover charge, which is very common in Italy, and the waiter assured us there was not.  After dinner, we noticed that he had tacked on a surcharge and then aggressively demanded that we tip him on top of that.  We refused to do so since he lied to us.  The meal wasn’t fabulous, and his attitude was super bad, but he still made a handsome (hidden) tip despite it all.  Oh well, we had a lovely dinner with the other couples, the ambiance was nice, so it still was fun.

dinner with the Aussies off Piazza Navona

Walking back to our hotel, we had many lovely views of the Tiber River, a carousel and gelateria along its banks, as well as the Castel Sant’ Angelo (Castle of the Angels) along the right bank of the river.
This castle was super old, and was finished in 139 AD. How’s that for some ancient history?  Our hotel was just down the street from the elaborate government building.
Well it’s off to bed so that we can rest up for our last day in Rome. We’ll be visiting another country … Vatican City!

Ciao a tutti!

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Tuscan Countryside

We departed Chianciano early for the day’s exploration.  The Tuscan countryside was a delight for the senses.  The crisp, fresh, air, beautiful golden wheat fields waving in the gentle breeze, peaceful quiet, and the texture of nature, are the images forever imprinted in my mind.  I absolutely love Tuscany!

famous image of zig zag cypress trees in Tuscany

Even the smallest of cypress trees are very expensive, so to have this splendid lined driveway full of them is surely a sign of great wealth.

Bagno Vignoni – Spa Town

Our first stop was in Bagno Vignoni, which is a spa town that has natural hot springs.

Bagno Vignoni

Our group got to soak our feet in this very hot water bath that ran through canals, while enjoying the surrounding views. Other than that, there really wasn’t a whole lot to do in this very small town. It was quite peaceful however.

Pienza
On the road to Pienza, we stopped and took some more photos of the gorgeous countryside.

famous photo op

The one particular place that generated a lot of interest, especially amongst the men, was this gated home, with two prominent rows of cypress trees in the wheat fields below.  It is the location of a legendary, running-through-the-wheat-fields scenes in the movie,  “Gladiator”.   Molto Bella!

Gladiator scene

Pienza is known as the “perfect renaissance town”, and is quaint and quiet. It also is known for Pius II Pope’s summer palace, built in 1459.  He was one of 18 children … wow!  (Sounds like the Duggers.)

Since photos weren’t allowed inside on the tour, I only got photos of the outer gardens and views.  His palace had beautiful carved wood, but felt depressing. There was a weapon room that the boys would of loved. It was filled with a great collection of torture items.

view from the palace

After a quick lunch in a corner cafe … I ate a ham, mozzarella and tomato sandwich and Dave ate a porcetta (spicy pork) sandwich, we departed at 1:30 to go to the next town.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot … I had my first experience with a squat toilet. Eww! For those of you who don’t know (I didn’t) it is simply a hole in the ground, in which you try your very best to take good aim and go. It was very, very, unsanitary, which is something I can’t stand. I tried to wash off my shoes in the sink, but there was no soap, so I felt slimy and wanted a Clorox wipe desperately! (For my shoes, not for me you know!) Yuck!

Montepulciano

Montepulciano is one of Tuscany’s highest hill towns, and its fortifications offered broad views over Umbria and Southern Tuscany (from tour guide).  This town is famous for its wine.  It is believed in Italy that all foods should come from the same soil.  They don’t cross wine from another region with their food from their own region.  Chianti wines make this region famous.  There are 70,000 acres of vineyards between Florence and Siena that grow the grapes for this wine.

lovely door and flowers

Since this was the highest hill town, it boasted splendid views of the countryside below.

There was a scene in the movie “Under the Tuscan Sun,” where the young Polish man performed the flag throwing in the Piazza Grande. Here is a photo of that area.

Piazza Grande ~ Montepulciano

We went on a self-tour of a wine cellar. I can’t believe how many stairs we had to go down in order to get to the huge wine barrels. It was kinda creepy down there and really quite dark too.

This wine is “Noble Wine,” and is considered to be quite good. I tasted it and thought … meh! Of course this is only because I wouldn’t be able to tell an exquisite wine from a cheapo one, and I’m not a big fan of wine drinking.

You may have noticed that I have a great fondness for the glorious flowers all over the many Italian towns we visited. Aren’t they just so refreshing, set against the old plastered walls? Love, love, love!

Italian friends knitting, and embroidering

Truly one of my most memorable experiences happened when Dave and I were wandering down quaint little cobbled streets in Montepulciano.  We stumbled upon three little old Italian ladies enjoying their needlework while chattering away.  Of course I had to stop and admire their work since needle arts are one of my passions.  The one woman on the right was very wary of me, but once she saw my joy and admiration of their work, she began to smile.  They only spoke Italian and I only could say a few key phrases like “Molto Bella” – very beautiful.  Through gestures and smiles, we began to understand one another perfectly.  I hope someday, when I reach their ages, I’ll be able to pass the afternoon with my best friends while knitting something I adore.  I absolutely loved the glimpses of the day to day life of Italians.

mosaic tile art

We happened upon this man who was sitting in his studio creating these amazing mosaic pieces of art.  He had a huge spread of tiny tile pieces and was selecting and placing them one at time, with a pair of tweezers.  He had the patience of a saint.  I wish I could afford this particular piece of art since irises are dear to me because they were my deceased Grandmother’s  favorite flowers.

It was back to the hotel after a long day in Tuscany.  We had dinner at the hotel and once again sat with Troy, Leigh and their parents for dinner.  The conversation was entertaining as usual, and then it was back to the room to get some rest for our trip into Rome the next day.

Buonanotte ~ Goodnight!

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

San Gimignano

fragrant flowers everywhere

outer wall

Ciao!

Today we started off with an hour and a half bus ride through the tranquil region of Tuscany.  Our first destination was San Gimignano ~ a smallish village, where we admired the Salucci Towers, Chigi Towers and Cathedral.  This town had an outer wall, which seemed to be rather common in this region.

Photographing these beautiful small Italian towns was amazing.  There was beauty everywhere!

Yup, it's a real boar!

Somehow this guy doesn’t make that scrumptious-looking ribbon pasta look more appetizing!

There is so much texture in these Italian villages, with the cobblestone roads, and old plastered walls. You definitely know you’re not in the States anymore.

view from the look-out

We took a short, but very steep hike up “La Rocca” (steep stairs) to get the most magnificent views of the Tuscan countryside. Our views were as far as the eye could see from the top of this stone look-out. Well worth it!

Is that tower growing out of Dave's head?

Exploring on our own was one of our favorite things to do. We always found very interesting shops and evidence of daily life in each place that we visited.

Although there weren’t many large grassy areas in these villages, there always were beautiful displays of flowers and greenery. So, so pretty!

laundry day~ I love the simplicity of this

Apparently each town is well-known for something, and in San Gimignano they’re famous for their gelato. They were world champions for multiple years. We can proudly say that we devoured the most creamy and tasty gelato on the planet. With our experience as our evidence, we strongly agree in the town’s reason for fame.

world's best gelato (thanks Vanna aka Dave)

too many choices

My choice was berries of the forest (much prettier in Italian – frutta de rosca … I think), which included strawberries, raspberries and blackberries. Very refreshing on this hot day.  Isn’t this display absolutely luscious?

Siena

When you hear Siena, you think of the earthy, reddish color … huh?  Well that is the covenant color, and is in abundance in the medieval hill town of Siena.  The emblem that can be seen all over town is the “She Wolf” suckling two infants.  There is historical significance to this dating way, way back.

In the center of town is the medieval public square, Piazza del Campo, which is shell shaped. The population here is about 50,000.

Campos Square - Siena

Twice a year the “Palio”, a medieval horse race, happens in Campos Square. Each of the 17 “contrade,” or neighborhoods, participate. Prior to the race itself, horses are led into church to be blessed. If the horse relieves itself while there, it is considered a sign of good luck … gross! The racers ride bareback around the square, while the audience is packed in the center like sardines. It can be quite dangerous for both riders and the audience, as you can imagine.

only a poster of the "Palio" horse race

The trophy for winning is a banner of the Virgin Mary. Huh?

We were spoiled by this scenery as we meandered through the streets while enjoying a slice of one of Italy’s tastiest pizza pies. YUM!
A local guide named Nicky took us on a tour through the zebra striped Cathedral of Siena.

Cathedral facade - Siena

Isn’t the outside of this Cathedral stunning?  I still can’t get over how ornate and intricate many of Italy’s churches are!  This cathedral’s interior boasts the fine art work of Donatello, Bernini and Michelangelo himself.

zebra striped stone, Gothic style Cathedral

The day was scorching hot, and dipping into the interior of this gorgeous Cathedral offered cool relief.  We were able to lean up against the cool marble striped pillars, and admire her beauty.  There were lovely frescoes, statues, brilliant mosaic art and stained glass, as well as pretty inlaid tile floors.

The ceiling was so lovely. The Piccolominis were a noble family who had their own chapel inside the cathedral, with paintings made by Raphael’s students. Their alter had four sculptures done by Michelangelo. The details were unbelievable!

Michelangelo's sculptures on the Piccolomini alter

Look at the intricate mosaic work on the ceiling of the Piccolomini’s library ceiling.  Can you imagine reading or studying in there? There were so many stories that were told through this gorgeous art.  Beautiful indeed!

overload of beauty

There were so many pieces of art work everywhere you looked.  The stained glass depicts the last supper.

After enjoying this Cathedral, we were able to snap a few photos of some points of interest: a Ferrari … (for the boys), and children playing … (for me).

We left Siena via bus and arrived at our hotel, the Grande Albergo Fortuna, in the spa town of Chianciano Terme. The grounds were very nicely landscaped with lovely views of the “old town” nestled on the hillside across the road. There was a refreshing pool, but there was no air conditioning in our hot, hot, room … again! What a drag! After voicing a a complaint to our tour guide, she was able to upgrade us to a suite with two bathrooms and a living room. SCORE! … especially since there was air conditioning (not great) in there.

This visual will forever be etched upon my mind. I can’t believe this was the view from our hotel room. Whoa!

view from hotel

After a little time on our own to relax, we boarded the bus for a dinner excursion at a Tuscany farmhouse ~ Ristorante Casale.

view from Ristorante Casale

We dined with our favorite Australian family – Norris, Faye, Leigh and Troy. Whenever we were with them, there was nothing but hilarious laughing and fun. Tonight was no different. When we were eating a delicious pasta dish, Troy reminded us that there was a duck sauce on it. Remember that Troy and I thought we saw a duck’s foot on the platter of food at the monastery the night before? It came back to haunt us! A few minutes later, I noticed a little, black hard thing on my plate, and Troy and I thought it was a duck’s eye. We all broke out in hilarious, uncontrollable laughter, which got the attention of our fellow (not as fun) diners. Troy then saw two more “duck eyes” on her plate, which only fueled the hysterical roar. Then, her mother Faye, started coughing and Troy said it was likely due to a duck feather stuck in her throat. We all burst out laughing again, and that was enough to spin us out of control with the giggles. I’m surprised we didn’t get kicked out of there! There is one thing for sure … whenever we dined with the Aussie’s, we were the table having the very most fun!

There was dancing tonight too, but it was to the horrid music of a lounge lizard singer. He was so very awful! We made the best of that inferior music and had a good time anyway.

We arrived back at the hotel at 10:30 ish and then we heard a knock on our door. It was Leigh inviting us to have drinks on the patio overlooking the pool. Of course we had to say yes! After all, we were the coolest bunch of people on our tour. Only Andie (tour guide), Maria (cool USA Italian from the East coast) and Troy and Leigh (awesome Aussie sisters) were privy to the after party. We talked about the culture of Italian men and their mistresses, drugs, and lots of other interesting Italian cultural conversations. We were having such a good time, and were so loud with our laughter that the hotel management basically kicked us out, due to noise complaints from the other guests. Ooops!  We finally got to bed around 1:00 a.m. and we needed to be up for breakfast at 6:30. Short night sleep, but very worth it!

Today’s events were many and very tiring. What wonderful, memorable experiences.

Ciao bellas!

Tomorrow is the hot baths of Bagno Vignoni, and Pienza.

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Florence / Firenze (As the Italians say)

As I alluded to last post, we didn’t sleep a wink due to the fact that our air conditioning was broken and our room was about 100 degrees (barely exaggerating!).  Today was one of our biggest, most impressionable and cultural days on our trip, and I was definitely sleep deprived!  Bah!

Early today we had a guided tour with a local woman to the Academia Gallery where we saw Michelangelo’s “The David“… perfect!  The 6 ton marble statue is situated at the end of a longish hallway on a pedestal all by himself.

Michelangelo's David

Light streamed in through the dome up above him.  Upon first glimpse of this amazing piece of art, it literally took my breath away.  I was in awe!  Its beauty, size – 17 feet tall, protruding veins in his lowered hand, ribs, muscles, tendons, peaceful face … just the most beautiful piece of art I’ve ever seen.

His feet and hands were larger and out of proportion to the rest of his body.  It is believed by some that it was intentional since he was originally intended to be viewed from afar and from down below in a church.  Still others believe they are bigger to help the statue stay balanced.  Who knows?  I could have stayed there admiring Michelangelo’s finest work forever.

The David is from the biblical story of David and Goliath.  There is disagreement whether David was sculpted to depict him before, or after his battle with the much larger Goliath.  His veins are protruding on the downward hand, and are flat on the hand that is held upward, holding the slingshot.  The anatomy is so intricately depicted.  All of Michelangelo’s dissections of corpses certainly paid off!  David is magnificent!

The marble used for the statue was from a quarry in Northern Tuscany.  Michelangelo was only 26 years old when he was commissioned to complete the work that was barely started by another artist 25 years prior.  It only took him 3 years to complete David, and his reveal was in 1504.

According to Michelangelo,      ” … free forms are already inside the stone … the work of sculpting was simply a matter of chipping away all that was not part of the statue.”  Quite humble I might say!

David was originally placed in the Piazza della Signoria in Florence, but was eventually moved to the Academia Gallery, where no photos are allowed.  A copy of David is in front of the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence today.

Copy of David in front of Palazzo Vecchio

We toured the  Basilica di Santa Croce di Firenze, or the Church of the Holy Cross of Florence.  The following photo is not mine, since we both forgot to photograph its facade.

Basilica di Santa Croce (wiki photo)

Inside this basilica are 16 different chapels.  The inside has plain wooden pews, but has marvelous frescoes by Giotto.

There are  tombs of  Galileo, the famous Italian astronomer and of Michelangelo, the famous artist.

Galileo's Tomb

Michelangelo's tomb

After a Florentine leather work demonstration, we ate lunch at a local pizzeria on Neri St.(quite tasteless, really). We picked up a gift and then we headed on over to Piazza della Signoria, to get in line for the Uffizi Museum.

Of course there were no photos allowed, but we did see some of the world’s most gorgeous and famous paintings here. Thanks to Wiki for their photos of famous paintings.

The Birth of Venus - Botticelli

Adoration of the Magi - Leonardo da Vinci

Doni Tondo (Holy Family) - Michelangelo

We could of spent days in this museum of world class paintings, but after a few hours, we needed to go back to the hotel to prepare for the evening festivities.

Our evening was spent in La Certosa at a 14th century monastery, followed by dinner and lively entertainment at a restaurant just across the way.

La Certosa - 14th Century Monastery

Apparently there are only 7 monks living in this massive monastery.  We were given strict instructions to not speak with them should our paths cross (which they didn’t of course)!

There was beautiful artwork, as well as a gorgeous church with amazing 3 dimensional paintings of angels in the corners.

Now take a look at those little angels just leaning straight out of the corners. They look like 3-D statues, but they’re just painted to look that way. That stuff really intrigues me!

3-D looking statues that are really just a flat painting

The gardens and grounds are kept by “lay men”, who deliver food and do everything else.  There is even a small graveyard in the center garden with monks on one side and lay men on the other.  Check out the skull and cross-bones on the stone supports.

We even got to tour a monk’s room. It was larger than I thought with an eating/ desk area, bedroom, longish corridor to walk in and get exercise, and a small outer garden area.

The lay men would deliver food through a small opening in double doors. If the food isn’t picked up within 3 days, then they could peek through a 3 inch peep hole to see if the monk is dead. Only twice a year, could the monks actually invite 2 family members to visit for the day, then it was back to silence.  Weird life!

Dinner was down the road at the restaurant, La Certosa del Galuzzo (monks), that has a relationship with the monastery. They provide the monks with all their meals, and in turn, the monks allow select tour groups to visit their monastery. I guess that’s a win, win, win, situation for everybody!

The photo on the right shows the violinist, accordion player, and Valentina … the ear shattering opera singer. Who’d ever guess that such a small woman could produce such an enormous sound!  The servers were dressed as monks and also provided the entertainment.  The old, heavy set monk, was smitten with Maria in our group, and kept dancing and singing to her.  The night was very entertaining, and the food was superb!

The menu consisted of:

I sat next to the younger Australian, Troy, and we laughed the whole evening. One course on our menu was stuffed duck, and I thought I actually saw a little webbed duckling foot sticking up off of a plate across the room from us. We laughed so hard at this, that we could barely eat. This little “duck” joke would come back to haunt us the next day, so stay tuned for that funny episode.

We were offered “rocket fuel” liqueurs made by the Certosa Monks after dinner. Although we refused, some of our fellow travelers took the shots of alcohol which nearly knocked them on their a#*es.

Then it back to the hotel to rest up for tomorrow’s adventure in Southern Tuscany!

Molto Bella! Very Beautiful!
Ciao!

Aiuto! Help me!  Today was the best, but I was so exhausted!